hi dave neewbe here, to raise the front suspension beam you tourn 1/2 inch plus 2/16 am i correct

yes, that will work fine

OK tanks Dave

Okay so the consensus is to cut and turn the front, but any consensus on the rear? Adjusters or cut and turn? If so how much?

Side Notes: Building a Class 11 for Baja 1K only . . .

KS
My car is just a play car so I just re-indexed the rear spring plates but the racers install the King Kong adjusters in the rear I think. when I did mine I made the bottom of the spring plate cover about 1/2 of the bottom rear bolt hole for the bushing cover, it is pretty stiff and rides on the stop most of the time. One of these days I am going to notch the spring plate a little and put some Bilstein 7100 shocks in the back to match the front

Casey

We've started out Class 11 build,,,gulp... I'm down here in Ensenada and I was talking to a local builder down here and he believes 9/16" is too much. He was talking 3/8" cut and turn, and is thinking that 9/16" will cause way too much bounce in the front end. What would some of the differences be between them?

go to another builder, the one you went to does not know crap 3/8 is a fools rotation

Dave once told me, '1/16 past half an inch'. Most 11 cars are between 1/2 and 5/8. 3/8 would work for a class 11 look a like used on the street, that's about it.

So are there any tricks to pullin the beam and doing this? Or is it pretty simple. I have never taken one off yet.

It's easy to me:
1. Scribe a line across the beam center section longer than the section you're about to cut out, I normally cut about 6" out.
2. Using a sawzall, carefully cut the center section out as straight as you can. I can normally do this pretty well because my eyeball is pretty well calibrated. Some people use other methods like a pipe cutter. You don't want to have a wide cut so don't use a grinder. If you do, use a cutoff wheel (thinner). ALSO, ONLY CUT ONE TUBE AT A TIME!!!! That way the other tube keeps you in alignment for the beam.
3. Clean all the metal bits out, attach a piece of angle iron to the back of the beam to hold the cut out piece steady for tack welds.
4. Rotate it 1/2" to 5/8" for a race car, finish weld it, nice and hot!
5. Repeat on second beam tube.