Hey guys, I realize that there is probably all this information in many other spots on this board but I'd like to get all the info I can on putting together my roll cage.

I'm ready to purchace my cage, but want to make sure I get the right thing (my score rule book has not arrived).

What is the required wall thickness and size of the tubing for a class 11?

Would that cage also be sufficient for a class 5-1600?

What size gussets are required?

If I'm going to remove the body, can I buy a 1 piece pre-built cage, if so who makes it?

Do my seat mounts and fuel cell have to be tied into my cage or just the floor board?

What about an engine cage? is this allowed in class 11?



If anyone can think of anything else to do with the building of a roll cage please let me know.

Thanks

Hope the pics help you out. If you ask, some body will answer. There were 5 cars at the last race, built 5 different ways. Best of luck. Dennis

I went to the FUD race last weekend with the sole purpose of looking at evryone's cars in person and meeting some of the people who built them. It's true. They are all different but basically the same. I picked up the Chenowth class 11 cage at Kartek in Corona. $175 plus tax. It comes with one big hoop and two boxes full of cut tubing. There are no directions. Just a schematic type drawing/parts list, and a small plastic bag with some small pieces and gussets. It's truely just a starting point for a real cage. The rest is custom. There are some minimum requirements in the score rulebook. When we're ready, we plan on putting the body back on, tack welding the chenowth cage in place, tack welding additional tubing for seats, fuel cell, etc. Then removing the body again and finish the welds. Four people to lift the body on and off easily. From what I've heard here, the new roll cage rules do not apply to class 11 cars. As for class 5, I don't know. Sorry. I had the same question myself. The score website had the new roll cage rules posted on it under tech-something, but again, I don't think thay apply to class 11.

Before you cut that tubing, decide how you'll mount that main hoop.

If you saw 1111 and 1101 you'll notice that we utilized the torsion housing as our rear main hoop mounting point, oposed to using the pan. we also run a tube from the lower beam tube to the torsion housing and then mount the front main hoop to those 'side bars'. It makes it more complex to build but if you want, I'll explain it to you over the phone.

aloha

So form how it sounds I want the body and pan to mount to the cage instead of the cage mounting to them? I mean the cage is the structural system and EVERYTHING mounts to it................. I'm trying to understand but it's not totally sinking in. I think it will get easier this afternoon when I actually have my cage parts to look at and get in place.

You should integrate the cage into the car is a way the ties in the body, suspension and adds strength if possible. The cage is essentially to protect the driver and codriver but if done correctly will add a lot of torsional and lateral strength to the pan and keep the car from cracking everywhere and falling apart (as fast....)....... the car will still crack and fall apart.....