I just started to take apart the front suspension and was not sure whether to put adjusters or turn them.I was reading and some of you guys prefer turning them.

I will tell you this, if you turn your beem 1/2 plus ad 2 16ths and use stock torsion bars up front you will never have the need for adjusters in front. Adjusters up front are the weekest link on any vw based car.The whole weight of the car rest on ONE BOLT!!!I lost the Baja 500 a few years back in 1600 class when that 1 bolt broke and the car fell down!!!I feel this way about 5/1600 and 1/2 1600or 9. If you have it at the rite spot you would never need to adjust it anyway.Anybody that has an adjuster in the front of an 11 car and keeps adjusting the front end has really no idea were to put it, and I gave you the exact number to rotate your beem. no more no less. Any more and you will break torsion bars, any less will be to soft. And how did I come to this conclusion you ask? I have built 27 class winning class 11 cars and this IS what works best----Dave-co

I am building a full body play car (basically a non-race Class 11). I am keeping all glass, stock fuel tank, stock spare up front, and will have a cage with bracing up front. Interior will have all seats & carpeting, so I assume my car will be a little heavier than a race Class 11. If I cut & turn 9/16\" will I be pre-loaded on the stop, or will I have a little suspension droop. I am planning on running the Bilstein Class 9/11 shocks in front.

Thanks!

Nicholas

cut & turn, just like DaveCo said....9/16\"

another pic.........

I turned my beam 9/16\" but now its a little bit hard to put the spindle back on? Is it suppose to be like this?

bajajunky wrote:


YEP, sure is....I used a 4ft bar to lift my upper arm so we could install the spindle & camber/caster adjuster....

Yes, you have made it stiffer by turning the beam. Easy way to do it is take a comealong, atach it to the bottom shock mount, the other end to the stock jack mount or anywere tword the rear. Bring it up to were the spindle is in position for the top arm to fit, then put a big bar under the top are and lift it up and into the spindle. Tighten your nuts top and bottom before you let the tension off. If a comealong is not available, you can use a floor jack under the shock mount on the arm to bring the bottom arm up with the spindle. You should bolt the spindle to the bottom arm before you do all of this, that way you just have to bolt the top arm to the spindle when you get it in position. Hope this helps, It doesnt get any easyer than this.--Dave-co

Just did it 30 mins ago on my moms car, took a 1 inch pipe about 3-4 feet long and slide it under the arm and on top of the rollcage that goes to the beam on the side of the master cylinder. Pulled up and guided it in pretty easy.

alright thanks guys..