This time i thought of hole sawing two 1" holes in the roof to weld two post to the roll cage.
The posts will stick up a half inch with a square or round plate to have a quick release bolt system for the light Bar. I think overhead lights are useless except for searching the horizon for coarse markers, Ron Jon says there good for faking out the competition by simulating a trophy truck, I figured a Train air horn will work as well - LoL - I still want a light bar, it makes the car look more serious in display on techday!!

Do you think i will have a problem with tech by drilling the 1" holes.
I did not like bolting directly to the roof and i am running a windshield so i cannot pop out through the window hole!

I have plans for something similar on my car, to mount lights or a rack to tote stuff around when I do volunteer work for SNORE.

I can say with 96% certainty that SNORE would allow it to pass tech.

Our F&L Class 11 has something similar to what you are speaking about ...

i will be doing the same thing except my window stays in and those forward posts will be going through the roof about 12" back from the window to clear the window glare.
SCRAMBLER, Thanks for the input!
I still need better confirmation that score will clear tech for two 1" ROUND HOLES FOR THE POSTS.
Dave C. any comments!

It is no issue, but why not go inside and mount angle iron pieces that weld to the cage and mount your lights to the roof with the angle iron under the roof. My cars are done that way and it strengthens the body up top as the lights are bolting the roof to the cage. That is why I have lights up there, roof mounted lights SUCK mounted anywhere around the windshield, the best light you can get is mounted up front on the bumper area. You will NEVER see a pro rally car with lights up on the roof or windshield, the lower they are the better they are, I have always put lights up on the roof for the old school look but the truth is all these fancy light bars around the visor could not be in a worce place. The second you get into dust of anykind those lights do nothing but light up the dust! The bumper is where the lights work the best, no glare and they dont light up the dust rite in front of your face!

I agree, my opening statement mentioned that overhead lights are useless except for searching the horizon for coarse markers, Ron Jon says there good for faking out the competition by simulating a trophy truck - LoL, I figured a Train air horn will work as well - LoL - I still want lights up top, it makes the car look more serious in display on techday!!

The reason I did not go inside with the mount is because I did not think of it - LOL.
I am always in training trying to think outside of the box,
Yes, They will be mounted far enough back to limit the glare on the windshield, They will mostly be for looks for display and course marker spotters when turned on. Also ron jon has a good idea when you pull up to a slower car, turn them on to get them to pull over!
Just looked at the car and that is a simple job to install.
Thanks Dave C

the f&l cars racing the 1000, if it is id put a windshield in it for sure

Yeah, I had called Savage about this as well. Supposedly, no problem for holes in the roof for a lightbar. I did not, however, recieve written confirmation (per usual SCORE tech).

Whether they work on the roof or not, whatever, they look sweet.

I have to agree with Dave on this one. My lights mounted (near the windshield) on top give bad reflection off the hood and cause major distraction. The last night race I turned them off and utilized the lower lights and that worked better. Getting ready to start prepping my car Dave. See you in La Paz.

We use the roof-mounted lights at night when it's not dusty. We've got three on top and have the left and right ones turned slightly outward so we can spot a turn a little quicker. When we're in dust, I flick back and forth between the top lights and a couple of amber lights mounted on the front bumper depending on which set give us the best view.

Technically, the bumper mounted amber lights are just regular halogens with red and yellow gels that I picked up at an art supply store because, you know, I'm cheap.

If you're coming up behind Rob Messer, just turn everything on and he'll move out of the way.