From \"S.C.O.R.E.\" Tech Update..................Class 11

Intake manifold is restricted to a stock 34mm original equipment center section or its replacement. A 1½-inch (1.500) long by half-inch (.500) diameter tube may be weld two inches below carburetor flange.


Just WHAT can that little piece of tube do ???????

What it does is give you a much better area to hose clamp your manifold to the end casting. Instead of using the stock little hose thing you can use a better hose also

I don't think that is what that part of the rule is talking about. I think Dave is thinking of this part...

\"A maximum of a ¼ inch (.250) may be removed from each end of the center section for clearance. A slip tube with a 1 5/8 inch (1.625) diameter, two inches (2.000) long may be welded to the end of the runners to allow the use of a better hose connection.\"

I have no idea what the part Old Manx is talking about benefits or helps. Would be nice to hear what this little piece of tube is for.

Thinking about it more, I think I know what it is for. I am pretty sure it is a tube welded to the manifold so you can mount a boost bottle. Whether boost bottles do anything is a topic for debate. I have spoke to several engine builders and have heard some say it helps with throttle response and others think it is pointless.

Yep. That's the boost bottle connection. If you run it, be careful that you angle it down slightly. Some guys have had fuel collect in them and it can cause a fire.

If you look at the stock intake from an autostick, you'll see what we're talking about. Basically, the rule allows you to make your own autostick manifold.

You are right, I miss understood the question. Yes it is for a bust bottle, all my FAT motors have the boost bottle, and I have NEVER herd of a fire or gas collecting in them, cannot happen, no matter where or how you mount it, gas cannot travel back up the tube on either a auto stick manifold or the tube put in. Whether the boost bottle does anything I don't know

The coalition is a handy place to visit...we were just talking about this same thing. I am experiencing a bit of a flat spot when the engine is running at low rpm and under a load and then you stab it. There is a flat spot right at that point. Maybe the \"boost bottle\" will help by maintaining some vacuum during that transition. Any more thoughts or ideas anybody?

Thanks

Chris

The coalition is a handy place to visit...we were just talking about this same thing. I am experiencing a bit of a flat spot when the engine is running at low rpm and under a load and then you stab it. There is a flat spot right at that point. Maybe the \"boost bottle\" will help by maintaining some vacuum during that transition. Any more thoughts or ideas anybody?

Thanks

Chris

It is to increase the volume of the intake track between the carb and intake valve. When you let off the throttle the vacuum level will probably rise to the same level but then you have more volume to get the mainjet working again when you stab the throttle back on.

Dave. Ramsey swears that a car burned because of a boost bottle melting. I can't remember what kind of car it was. Anyway, it might be wise to mount it so fuel droplets cannot collect in the boost bottle, that could lead to some bad situations. Mount it so gravity drains it. That's my 2 cents.

Many people run motors without them and don't notice a difference once they've been added.....You be the judge. Don't do what everyone else does just because....

Gotdirty22 wrote:Chris, the flatspot you are refering to is most likely in the carburetor. forget about the \"boost bottle\" as that will not fix your problem. It sounds like the accelerator pump is out of adjustment or the fuel discharge nozzle is clogged. It is imparitive that fuel starts to squirt immediately when the throttle is cracked. With the engine off, remove the top of the carb and using a pair of pliers, remove the brass discharge nozzle. Work the throttle several times to flush any deris in the circuit. Also ensure that the fuel in the bowl is extrmely clean. Using compressed air, blow out the discharge nozzle then reinstall lightly tapping it back into place with pliers at the base. Work the throttle and aim the spray stream directly at the throttle plate not at the side of the carb. Again, make sure that the second you so much as touch the throttle, the tip of the discharge nozzle is getting wet with fuel. Adjust the accelerator pump if need be. If you have an early 30 pict 1, there is no adjustment. You have to actually bend the arm on the accelerator pump taking out any play/slop. Put the top back on and give it a whirl. Also, make sure you have no vacuum leaks anywhere in the intake system. Good luck.